Elissa y Elise? Muy Similar!

As I made my way 16+ hours overnight on a border crossing bus between Panama City & San Jose, Elise was flying overhead to meet me. We started our two week adventure at the fortress front gate to Pangea Hostel where we hugged, dropped off our things, & head straight downtown for a stroll through the city & some curbside eats on bustling Central Ave. before the sun went down & San Jose turned into its lawless self. I 'd been to Pangea about a month earlier en route to Panama from Nicaragua & chose to spend my first night of transition with Elise there because I remembered it as an oddly modern, unnecessarily large, multi-lingual haven. We spent a couple hours flipping through the pages of three travel guides trying to narrow down just the start of an itinerary. After finally figuring out how to get a couple places in before meeting the girls in Tamarindo on Thursday (not an easy task considering how few paved roads run through the Pacific), we head to our room. It was here that Elise encountered her very first travel nightmare as one of our roomates asked us if the massive welts covering her entire body were bad. Bad? We immediately started itching head to toe & promptly zipped all our belongings up tight & requested to be moved away from the bed bug infestation. An hour later, alarm set for 5am, tucked in & content- the girl with the bed bugs walked in our door. We swallowed our fears, coated ourselves in coconut oil, wrapped the sheets on tight, & got our first night of limited shut eye.

The next day the world redeemed itself for the bed bug debacle & we fell onto a direct bus to Santa Teresa that was kind enough to actually get on the ferry across to the Southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula with us in order to transport us all the way to the center of the little beach town. We made ourselves at home at the cozy Tranquilo Backpackers hostel where from the picnic tables in front of the open-air jungle kitchen we could see two levels of mostly surfers swinging in hammocks, playing pool, & waxing their boards for tomorrows gnarly waves. After a lazy day strolling the town, cooking, napping, & pit stopping at the beach for sunset we forced ourselves to complete a day-to-day plan for the adventure ahead of us & set another 5am alarm.

Santa Teresa

Tranquilo

The next morning found us in Montezuma, a charming stretch of beach, town, & jungle. We climbed up the side of a hill to unload our backpacks in a bungalow at Hotel Luna Llena then hit the main road en route to an infamous three story waterfall. We rock hopped along a trickling river in a nonsensical zig-zag (Elise falling only once) to the first cascada. Here we dipped into the cool fish-filled water & pondered where exactly the second set of falls was located- & more importantly- the path to it. Over-confident advice from a Canadian sent us slipping up a sandy incline in hopes of reaching the second set- which lay right above the first, easy as that. After pulling ourselves upwards to the canopy grabbing tree branches that sometimes unfortunately turned out to be loose hanging vines, we found little more than zip line platforms. Resisting the temptation to jump on the wires & head down the easy way we explored until finally we came to the second & third falls. We jumped & rope swang happily in the third before looking down the long fall to the second. Remembering Lonely Planet's statistics on deaths on the second waterfall, we left that one to the Canadian. From there we took the supposedly easier route back, fingers crossed, up a rope & down a steep questionable path using uprooted tree roots as our makeshift ladder. One, or two, dramatic wrong turns later found us back at the bottom safely. Back along the rock route down the river scaring dragonflies & iguanas out of the way, we made our exhausted way back into town via a rocky beach for a quick dip. With the rest of our energy we had a long dinner, perused the hippy dippy jewelry stands, & climbed into bed up on the hill under the reassuring protection of a mosquito net just as it started to rain- & set another 5am alarm.

Tamarindo was our next destination & this wasn't an easy route. All the buses are unreliable & this time we had to catch a bus leaving at either 5:30am or 6am to make a ferry in Paquera leaving for Puntarenas at either 8am or 8:30am to another bus across town to Liberia leaving sometime between 9am & 11am, to our final bus to Tamarindo either at 12:15pm or 2:30pm- in which case we ended up catching the 1pm trip. Not to mention that the travel times vary depending on when the bus decides to show, take off, & rest for seemingly no reason (sometimes because the driver is hungry, wants to say hello to a pal, or run various other errands conveniently on our way). There is no such thing as air conditioning on these public buses & I think our last bus stopped about 357 times before finally dropping us off to the girls who we found lounging on the beach unaffected by the stress of our day- something I'm not used to considering we're usually suffering side by side.

Our first night in Tamarindo was celebrated with a feast at Pedro's- a popular seafood spot where patrons bring their own Pilsen & patiently await their meals fighting for limited picnic table space under a thatched roof of palms. After a quick jukebox stop at a refreshingly quiet bar we head into the much anticipated chaos of Reggae night at Babylon Bar where we danced until I think Elise may actually have fallen asleep before making our way along the dusty path back to the girls apartment where we did not set a 5am alarm.

The morning heat sent us early to the beach for relief. After waking up, Elise, Lauren, & I walked south down the coast of the peninsula to neighboring Playa Langosta where we collapsed moving only to push through a strong current across an estuary stream into the ocean where the surfable waves tossed us back onto the beach to scour for shells. That night found Elise & I cringing at the reality of the following day's travel agenda. We were heading south of Puntarenas to Quepos/Manuel Antonio & no matter how we rearranged the puzzle, it meant 10hours of traveling via at least 4 local buses & possibly a ferry. So before we head out for a last night on the town we let ourselves breathe a deep sigh of relief & booked a shuttle that would take us straight to the beach in 6 hours. With air conditioning.

We were so happy to have avoided an anxious day-long shuffle that we just shrugged our shoulders, laughed, & ordered happy hour margaritas & pina coladas when it started raining the second we set foot in Manuel Antonio. We assumed the rain would have let up by the time we head back to the hostel, but it only came down harder. At some points tonight we were legit screaming to each other in order to make conversation over the beyond torrential downpour that was periodically knocking out the electricity. We took advantage of the all you can eat spaghetti bolognese, entertained ourselves killing mass numbers of mosquitos, & now we're putting ourselves to bed with a long hike on the agenda for tomorrow morning.